Five Fast and Fresh Ways to Let Veggies Shine This Winter
Get fresh this season with escarole in a fishy vinaigrette, charred Romanesco sunk in green sauce, or glazed honeynuts with a pop of pomegranate.
After all the rich meals of the holidays, winter veggies come as a welcome relief, countering with pleasantly bitter and peppery flavors. Slide seasonal produce to the center of the plate in the new year, and start your grocery list with leafy chicories, vibrant brassicas, and sweet roots. Then reach for bright sauces and textured toppings, like a squeeze of lemon, handful of fresh herbs, crunch of toasted nuts, or even briny anchovies. Think refreshing escarole dressed in a fabulously fishy vinaigrette, charred Romanesco sunk in green sauce, or glazed honeynuts with a color pop of pomegranate seeds.
Here are five ultra fresh ways to toss together winter veggies tonight. To call it dinner, simply add a few tofu cubes, a crispy piece of local halibut, or drop a farm egg on top.
Escarole Salad with Lemon-Anchovy Dressing
“I encourage guests to get into winter salad mode,” says produce category manager and farmer Simon Richard. “I consider escarole the gateway chicory. It’s more mild. It’s an easy substitute in a Caesar salad … but so much more vibrant than watery romaine.” Fifth Crow Farm grows beautiful bitter greens, easy to toss with bright citrus and briny fish. In a dry frying pan over medium heat, toast a couple of handfuls of walnuts. In a small bowl, whisk together a few chopped anchovy filets, a spoonful of Dijon mustard, the juice of a lemon, and about ½ cup olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, add the torn escarole leaves, drizzle with the dressing, and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the toasted walnuts.
Sautéed Dino Kale with Chili Crunch
Kale grows reliably year-round but thrives in frost, when Richard recommends seeking out sweet and tender leaves. You can try different varieties of dark greens from Blue House Farm, and they nearly always offer the classic lacinato or dino kale. The leaves sink down and get juicy with garlic, but a dollop of chili crunch amps up the heat and texture. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, warm a drizzle of olive oil. Add the torn kale leaves, stems removed, salt, and sauté until tender. Drizzle lightly with chili crunch, stir to coat and warm through, and sprinkle with sliced scallions.
Charred Romanesco in Avocado-Herb Sauce
Whatever broccoli and cauliflower can do, Romanesco can do with style. “It’s one of the most beautiful veggies that we sell … ” Richard says. “It adds a little more vibrance to a dish.” Go all green and sink it into a bright sauce. In a cast-iron skillet over high heat, warm a drizzle of olive oil. Add Romanesco florets, season with salt and pepper, and sear until dark golden and tender, stirring once or twice. In a blender, combine a peeled and pitted avocado, a dollop of Greek yogurt, the juice of a lemon, and a couple of handfuls of fresh herb leaves (parsley, tarragon, dill, or a combo), and season with salt. Pulse to make a thick sauce, loosening with olive oil if necessary. Generously spoon the green sauce on plates, pile the charred Romanesco on top, and sprinkle with capers.
Glazed Honeynuts with Pomegranate Seeds
You’ve spotted them at the Market. The mini veggie sensation of the season has to be the honeynut, a cute hybrid squash Full Belly Farm has helped popularize across the Bay. Simply split them in half, brush with a sweet glaze, and sprinkle with tart seeds. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the honeynuts in half and scoop out the seeds. Brush with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and place cut-side down on a sheet pan. Roast until nearly tender, about 20 minutes. Flip the honeynuts, brush generously with pomegranate molasses, and continue to roast until completely tender, 5 minutes longer. Sprinkle with fresh pomegranate seeds.
Japanese Sweet Potato Fries with Macha Mayo
Garnet sweet potatoes get to party all holiday season, so why not switch it up with purple spuds in the new year. Japanese sweet potatoes are extra firm and fluffy — “perfect for fries,” Richard notes. Slide them into the oven then whip up a spicy mayo for dunking. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut Japanese sweet potatoes into wedges ¼ to ½ inch thick and pile them on a sheet pan. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Roast until golden brown and crispy, 30 to 40 minutes, flipping once. In a small bowl, whisk together a dollop of mayo, a spoonful of salsa macha, and lemon juice to taste. Serve the sweet potato fries warm with the macha mayo on the side.
Becky Duffett is a food writer living and eating in San Francisco. Follow her on Instagram at @beckyduffett.
