To bump up the beaniness, she visited farmer Ryan Casey at Blue House Farm in Pescadero, who grows fruit, vegetables, and flowers, including hundreds of pounds of Brussels sprouts currently rolling into the Markets, and also more than 30 different types of heirloom beans. You might be more familiar with Rancho Gordo, acclaimed for responsibly sourcing beans from across the Americas, but it’s also super cool that we’ve got small farms growing beans right here in California. Blue House isn’t alone in growing beans locally, joining a couple of farms like our friends at Fifth Crow Farm, who have the odd dozen. However, it’s unusual for small farms in the US, so much so that Casey had to import special equipment from Turkey, and it’s extra special to plant so many varieties.   

“One of the biggest things that makes our beans unique from what somebody might find otherwise in a supermarket is how fresh they are,” Casey says. “It’s really hard to find beans grown within a year. Even though they’re dried beans, and you might assume they stay the same, they cook faster when they’re fresher, and have a more complex, interesting flavor.”  

When Hoogerhyde stepped into the barn at Blue House, she was “overwhelmed by the bean wall” with its array of spotted and speckled varieties. After sampling a few, the team decided to feature two different types: Flageolet is a fancy and French favorite, best known as the cassoulet classic; slim, white, and extra creamy. Cranberry beans, better known as borlotti in Italy, start with pretty red speckles, and sink into a rich and earthy flavor. Tossing both together, it layers the distinct textures.  

There’s nothing complicated about cooking a pot of beans, but assembling them into a festive gratin does take several days. Inside the holiday workshop at the Bi-Rite kitchen, our cooks soak the beans overnight, then simmer each type separately for the optimal texture. They roast earthy and sweet root veggies, including colorful rainbow carrots, peppery Tokyo turnips, and nutty celery root. Then sauté the turnip greens and kale leaves with plenty of garlic, before folding it all together in a hearty filling. Finally, they top it off with light and crisp (and made without gluten!) panko breadcrumbs, along with fragrant fresh parsley and thyme leaves.  

The heirloom bean gratin comes in three different sizes, big for catering (serves 9 to 12), medium for preorders (4 to 6), or small for the Markets (2 to 3), whether you’re hosting a festive party for a crowd or cozy dinner with a couple friends. It comes in an aluminum tray, which is easy to slide into the oven and bake until golden. But you could transfer it to an aesthetic casserole dish, and sprinkle with a few additional breadcrumbs. Or if you’re an omnivore, it wouldn’t be wrong to add a shower of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Hoogerhyde confides. She does strongly recommend reheating in the oven, no microwaving allowed. “You really want to get that crusty edge,” Hoogerhyde says. “That’s the best part. The same as mac and cheese.”  

And if you can’t get enough of these local heirloom beans, it’s also possible to pick up a bag in the Markets, which make gorgeous gifts for plant-protein-obsessed people this time of year. This season, we’re stocking the Hidatsa Shield from Blue House, originally grown by the Hidatsa indigenous tribe of the Dakotas, with striking tan and white markings, and prized for their meaty texture and nutty flavor. Although if you really need to see that “bean wall” for yourself, it’s a quick road trip to Blue House. The farmstand is open for winter hours, and you might spot a few more of Farmer Ryan’s favorites, including the plump and flavorful Good Mother Stallard, almost espresso toned Rio Zape, and baby pink Pinquito Beans.