How to Make a Tomatini, the Cocktail of the Summer
A freshly squeezed recipe, plus options to make it low or no ABV, courtesy of local bartender Elmer Mejicanos.
Becky Duffett
Martinis are all the rage at the moment, some stuffed with briny olives, others buzzing with espresso. Most recently, you might have spotted a few tomatinis around town, squeezing the most out of tomato season. It’s a trend we can really get behind at Bi-Rite, when Heirloom Tomatoes, Early Girls, Sungolds, Sweet 100’s, and more are piled high in the Markets. Why not add a splash of tomato to your martini? Especially in late summer, when we’ve got the juiciest maters of the year.
Elmer Mejicanos | Causwells
For a few pro tips, we called bartender and partner Elmer Mejicanos of Causwells and the upcoming Super Mensch in the Marina, a hot new restaurant and cocktail bar inspired by Jewish delis in NYC. A veteran of the bar scene in SF for more than two decades, Mejicanos loves shopping at the farmers market — sourcing from many of the same families as Bi-Rite — and showcasing local and seasonal produce in stunning cocktails. Of course, he’s into tomatoes. He’s seeing a trend, “Not just tomato martinis, but savory cocktails altogether.” Meaning, if you’re into a splash of olive brine or a sprinkle of salt on the rim of your drink, you’re going to love tomato cocktails, Mejicanos promises. “Tomato just has so much umami. It’s so savory.”
For the opening menu at Super Mensch, Mejicanos has not one but two tomato cocktails on the list. He’s got a modern take on a Bloody Mary, with clarified tomato water, vodka infused with fattoush (he actually soaks toasted flatbread in the spirit!), and celery foam floating on top. Plus, a play on a strawberry jelly donut that balances sweet strawberry with savory tomato, and a combo of plum and corn liqueurs — the fruit feels jammy, while the corn evokes a toasty, pastry flavor. For his pro purposes at the bar, he takes big juicy heirloom tomatoes, blends them with pectin to separate the solids, and strains it through cheesecloth, leaving a super clear, flavorful tomato water.
Tomatinis on the bar at Causwells | Becky Duffett
But of course, a martini only calls for a couple ingredients, making it so easy to shake up a tomatini at home. You only need a bottle of vodka or gin, a splash of dry vermouth, and a juicy tomato. It helps to have a few basic bar tools, like a cocktail jug, long spoon, and strainer, but you can work with a glass and straw. You will need to blend and strain the tomato water, but that can be done ahead and refrigerated until party time. Some people simply smash tomatoes, but Mejicanos contends that’s not a true martini. “You might as well make a Bloody Mary!” he laughs.
While it may be tempting to pour in extra booze, Mejicanos recommends sticking to a couple of ounces, so the delicate and vegetal character of the tomatoes can shine through. And if you’re drinking a little less these days, that’s also cool — it’s easy to swap in non-alcoholic vodka or gin for zero proof, or top it off with bubbles for a lighter spritz. No matter which tomato cocktail you reach for this summer, it’s the perfect pairing for a pizza party, pasta night, or seacuterie board.
An heirloom tomatini at home | Becky Duffett
Heirloom Tomatini
Ingredients:
½ oz dry vermouth, such as Dolin
1 oz tomato water, using one large heirloom tomato (see note below)
2 pinches salt
Cherry tomato, olive oil, and freshly ground pepper (optional)
Directions:
In the jug of a cocktail shaker or a tall metal cup, combine the vodka, vermouth, tomato water, and salt. Fill with ice and stir just until cold, using a bar spoon or straw, about 9 seconds. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a cherry tomato, dot with olive oil, and grind lightly with pepper, if you like, and serve cold.
Heirloom Tomatini (no ABV)
Ingredients:
1½ oz non-alcoholic gin, such as Pentire Adrift
1 oz tomato water (see note below)
2 pinches salt
Cherry tomato, olive oil, and freshly ground pepper (optional)
Directions:
In the jug of a cocktail shaker or a tall metal cup, combine the non-alcoholic gin, tomato water, and salt. Fill with ice and stir just until cold, using a bar spoon or straw, about 9 seconds. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a cherry tomato, dot with olive oil, and grind lightly with pepper, if you like, and serve cold.
Tomato Spritz (low ABV)
Ingredients:
1½ oz non-alcoholic gin, such as Pentire Adrift
½ oz dry vermouth, such as Dolin
2 oz tomato water (see note below)
4 to 6 oz prosecco or sparkling wine
Cherry tomato (optional)
Directions:
Fill a Collins glass or wine glass with ice. Pour in the non-alcoholic gin, vermouth, and tomato water. Top with prosecco and stir to combine, using a bar spoon or straw. Garnish with a cherry tomato, if you like, and serve cold.
Note: Tomato water is simply tomato juice that’s been strained, removing any pulp or seeds, leaving the flavorful liquid. To make tomato water, take a large Heirloom Tomato, and roughly chop the tomato, removing the core. Transfer to a blender and blend until mostly smooth. Strain it through a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth, depending on your preferred texture. This could take an hour or two, and makes about 4 oz of tomato water, which can be stored in the refrigerator for several days.
Becky Duffett is a food writer living and eating in San Francisco. Follow her on Instagram at @beckyduffett.
