Talking Turkey
We sat down with Bi-Rite’s 20+ year veteran meat and seafood category manager, Chili Montes, to chat heritage breeds, broad-breasted birds and how to pick the perfect turkey for you. Includes editor's notes for special Holiday 2024 tips.
Come Thanksgiving, we’re often overwhelmed for choice when it comes to turkey options. Why are heritage turkeys one option we should consider?
There are a few main reasons to consider buying a heritage bird. First off, heritage birds have pure genetics and are pasture raised. The word “heritage” refers to 10 specific breeds that were raised in America prior to the 1930s. These birds are anatomically very different from the more typical broad-breasted varieties and therefore both taste and cook differently. They have longer legs, a stronger bone structure, thicker bone density and can actually fly. These birds have a fuller flavor and, I’d say, if you’re intrigued by the diversity and genetics of heritage birds, it would be an excellent option for you. [Editor’s Holiday 2024 note: for smaller family gatherings, Friendsgivings, second holidays, and for those who prefer dark meat, heritage turkeys are a wonderful pick. The smallest size is perfect for four to eight servings. We recommend planning on one pound of turkey per serving.]
Are there many ranchers raising heritage breed turkeys?
No, they’re actually extremely limited. This is due in large part to the industrialization of poultry in the 1930s. Large companies came on the scene and implemented efficiencies that, over time, created commodity poultry. That said, one producer in particular, Frank Reese of Good Shepherd Poultry Ranch, has had a dramatic impact on saving the species. Known as the godfather of heritage turkeys, Reese is a third-generation poultry farmer in Kansas who has preserved the pure breed lines of several heritage breeds that were either undesirable or soon to become extinct, including Standard Bronze, White Holland, Blacks, Narragansett, and Bourbon Red.
Photo credit: Jim Richardson
The “godfather of heritage turkeys” is a pretty impressive title. How has Frank Reese shaped the heritage turkey industry?
It is an impressive title and extremely well-deserved. I traveled to Good Shepherd Poultry Ranch to spend time with Frank and see his operation first-hand. A prominent figure in the Slow Food movement, he’s a one-man operation raising heritage turkeys the traditional way. So, you see, he really is the godfather of heritage turkeys.
Tell me about the other turkeys Bi-Rite is offering this year. What’s special about each of them?
Every year we set out to source the best-tasting, ethically raised, broad-breasted birds available. This year we’re once again partnering with our friends at Pitman Family Farms in California’s Central Valley. They’re a third-generation, family owned and operated farm and have been raising their turkeys free-range and without antibiotics since 1954. An excellent local option, we’re proud to offer Mary’s certified organic birds which are always full of delicious, traditional flavor.
How do you guide guests towards finding the right bird for them? What questions should we ask ourselves? Also, any cooking tips for the big day?
Generally speaking, if you know you want a lot of white meat on the table, are after that traditional flavor, or are especially looking forward to using your leftovers in delicious new ways, a broad-breasted bird may be for you. If you’re not sure, I’d recommend you come in to the Markets and talk to one of our butchers, or reach out to our guest service team. We’re always happy to chat and can help steer you in the right direction. For a traditional roast turkey recipe, check out our recipe and tips for how to maximize flavor. [Editor’s Holiday 2024 Note: guest service team is available via email or via chat on our online store to help guide you through your Thanksgiving meal planning.]
