The Inside Scoop on the New Bi-Rite Market on Polk Street
Step up to the bright blue storefront. Sam would love to give you the inside tour.
By Becky Duffett
At long last, the new third location of Bi-Rite Market has opened on Polk Street in Russian Hill. Bi-Rite announced taking over the former Real Foods Company in fall 2022, and added the long-vacant salon next door in fall 2023. It took a full year of construction to combine and renovate this hundred-year-old building from the 1920s. But seasonal produce lovers, sandwich fans, and ice cream kids, the day has finally arrived — Bi-Rite Market Polk Street officially opened its doors on Thursday, August 29. “Just come by and say hello,” says founder Sam Mogannam. “Once you get inside the space, you’re going to be super excited.”
When Sam originally took over his family’s corner store in Mission Dolores back in 1997, he never imagined growing to three markets across the city. But when the team decided to add a third Market as part of its long-term vision, Sam loved this location. “This spot has always had a special place in my heart.” As a chef in the 90s, he lived a few blocks away and shopped regularly at Real Food. Even before that, he worked for the owners Jane and Kimball Allen — his first kitchen job was at their jazz club Kimball’s in Hayes Valley. He knows how much this market has meant to the neighborhood over the years. “It was one of the few stores in the city that had farm-direct relationships for produce.”
So step right up to the bright blue storefront. Sam would love to give you the inside tour. Here’s exactly what’s new, cool, and different at the biggest Bi-Rite Market in San Francisco.
It’s double the size (and extra tall)
Polk Street will be the biggest Bi-Rite Market by far. Shatara Architecture combined two storefronts, blasted through walls, and ripped out the ceiling, together with Kevin Chang from C&C Engineering, who built out the kitchen and installed plumbing and electrical. Sam estimates the retail floor and kitchen cover about 4,000 square feet, 50 percent larger than the Divisadero location, and double the size of 18th Street. It’s also taller with ceilings that soar above 20 feet into airy rafters and skylights.
Wider aisles and generous shelves
The layout will be similar to the other stores. Grab a cart and swing left for seasonal produce, prepared foods, and the freezer in the back. Keep cruising right for cheese, marinated meats, and checkout at the front. More space allowed for wider aisles, so there’s plenty of room to roll. And more shelves, so it’s easy to spot the good olive oil. “There’s more room to breathe, stand back and regard the shelves, and even decompress for a moment towards the back of the store,” says general manager Steffan Morin.
Grab-and-go options
For your shopping convenience, marinated meats will be tidily sealed, and salads will be all boxed up. The kitchen is making a wide variety of housemade items that are freshly prepared on site daily. This location won’t have a full-service butcher or deli counter, because the team has done extensive meatball testing, and these days, most people want to grab items from the case, rather than take a number and wait. “People would prefer to grab and go,” Sam says. “Their lives are busy.”
Fan favorite sandwiches
Of course, this location will feature a sandwich counter, for favorites stacked to order. The team revamped the sandwich menu last summer, and now there’s a balance of signature sandwiches made to order and grabbable baguettes in a rush. Yes, the Bernal Heights sandwich with buttery avocado, crispy sweet potatoes, and bacon is in the house.
The ice cream party is in the back
Bi-Rite Creamery has fully stocked the back freezer with pints, quarts, ice cream cakes, ice pops, and all of your favorite treats. Just in time to snag seasonal flavors like Peach Cobbler or Walnut Baklava Cherry Swirl, in the last few weeks of our special edition collaboration with Souvla.
Wait, where did the flowers go?
Standing on the sidewalk out front, does it feel like one detail is missing? Bi-Rite Markets are known for stunning floral displays, but Polk Street gets so much sun, the floral team didn’t want to blast their buckets. They’re tucking flowers inside, at least to start, while finding the right spot. The good news is that leaves sidewalk space for a couple of cafe tables coming soon (permit pending), to snag a seat and munch on a sandwich.
Look up! There’s a gorgeous green wall
Step inside and glance up, and there’s even more greenery. Flora Grubb Gardens planted a living wall to naturally divide the Market below and the offices upstairs. Check out the 10-foot-long steel planters overflowing with mini palm trees, frilly ferns, and trailing succulents.
Welcome to the official headquarters
The offices form an L-shape on a mezzanine level across the back and over the kitchen. Over the years, Bi-Rite offices have bounced around 18th Street and nearby in the Mission. But now, Polk Street will be the official headquarters for anyone who needs a desk. Sam can’t wait to have the team together and embedded in a Market.
Please ask for anything
While the team has been busy stocking shelves, they also saved plenty of space for special requests from the neighborhood. “At each of the stores, we try to not program one hundred percent, so we can respond to our guests’ needs… ” Sam says. “The products will evolve pretty rapidly over the course of the first year and be a reflection of the community.”
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Becky Duffett is a food writer living and eating in San Francisco. Follow her on Instagram at @beckyduffettopens a new window.